Encounter Olives

Only the very best olive oils in the world can be labeled ‘extra virgin.’

But what does that mean?

Unfortunately, the answer is, ‘It depends.’

The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) sets the standards by which olive oil is judged Until 1995, ‘EXTRA VIRGIN’ meant that the olive oil was mechanically produced (pressed, rather than chemically refined), and had an oleic acid (or free fatty acid) level under 0.8 percent.

‘VIRGIN’ olive oil is mechanically produced, but with acidity of between 0.8% and 3%. Other grades follow, concluding with lampante, or ‘lamp oil.’

Few quality producers bother to market any oil that isn’t extra virgin. In 1995, the IOOC added a new requirement for extra virgin status: the oil must taste good and meet “organoleptic” standards. Oils are put through a blind organoleptic analysis by a panel of experts.

They are rated on a 9-point scale, and must score 6.5 or higher to receive ‘extra virgin’ designation. You may have noticed that you can buy olive oil in the supermarket that is labeled as ‘Pure’ or ‘Original’ or ‘Light’ or the like. These mean that the oil has been refined using chemicals, rather than pressed.

They are like corn, safflower, peanut, or canola oils: they’re great for sautéing, but they are largely without flavor.

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